Paris
Fashion Week 2014: Featuring Chanel
Chanel spiky and modern at Paris Fashion Week
PARIS - Chanel designer Karl Lagerfeld on Tuesday delighted
haute couture's new breed of deep-pocketed customers with a collection just
like them—young, modern and in many cases Asian.
Boyish, spiky-haired models wore hats perched on the back of
their heads, cycling shorts and flat sandals with ribbons tied in a bow around
the ankle.
Bags with long straps were slung around the body like school
satchels.
Asked about the collection's youthful feel, the designer
joked that not many customers were interested in clothes with an
"old" feel. If there was a future, he said, "it can be like
this."
Lagerfeld drew inspiration for his collection from one of
the pioneers of modern architecture, Le Corbusier.
In the early 1930s, the architect created a terrace at his
apartment overlooking the Champs-Elysees with an outdoor fireplace and a mirror
set against a concrete wall.
Cue Lagerfeld's latest fashion extravaganza with a set
inside Paris's Grand Palais that was all sharp lines and big white walls.
Huge paneled doors at either end of the catwalk slid open to
reveal two Le Corbusier-style mirrors above 18th-century mantelpieces.
For autumn/winter 2014/15, Lagerfeld sent out a string of
memorable looks featuring playful skirts, pointed shoulders, fur necklines and
heavy embroidery that created a rich, baroque effect.
"I liked the idea of baroque elements and modern
touches. His (Le Corbusier's) apartment was a famous place for that,"
Lagerfeld told AFP after the show.
The architect's terrace was destroyed before World War II
but appeared over the years in many architectural books and magazines, he said.
"This is the typical thing of the collection—concrete
with baroque elements. Le Corbusier goes to Versailles," Lagerfeld added.
A significant number of guests at the show were from Asia,
such as Wen Hsin Tsai Hong from Taiwan who told AFP the collection had a
particularly Asian feel.
The models, she said, were shorter than usual and had a
noticeably "Asian shape," she said.
Another customer, Yi Mig Shi, 32, from Shanghai, described
the collection as "young" and said she planned to buy two of the
dresses.
For the finale, Lagerfeld added a dramatic touch taken from
Chinese history.
Models moved in formation from opposite ends of the set,
crossing in the middle, as if the Terracotta Army had been brought to life.
Lagerfeld then took to the catwalk with a pregnant model in
a bridal gown, applauded by guests including fashion photographer Mario Testino
and US Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour.
Haute couture, which exists only in Paris, is worn
exclusively by the world's richest women due to its sky-high prices.
Chanel fashion president Bruno Pavlovsky told AFP that after
years of an ageing clientele, more and more customers were now in their
twenties and thirties.
They were looking for exclusivity and bought haute couture
"for important events or as a present to themselves," he said.
Fashion houses are increasingly looking to the new elites of
countries such as China for customers.
Last July, Lagerfeld's haute couture show contrasted a
crumbling "old world" symbolized by a dilapidated theater with a
modern, futuristic-looking city.
At the same time, Christian Dior chief Sidney Toledano
declared that haute couture was "no longer something for old women."
Haute couture is a legally protected appellation subject to
strict criteria, such as the amount of work carried out by hand, the limited
number of pieces and the size of a house's workforce.
Around 30 haute couture collections for autumn/winter
2014/15 are being shown in Paris this week, before wrapping up on Friday. —Agence
France-Presse
Chanel
DEFILES COUTURE
FALL/WINTER 2014-2015
Spotted at
Fashion Week: The Best Shoe Trends of Fall 2014
http://www.glamour.com
Balmain's Woven Booties
Carven's Marigold Pumps
Chloé's Furry Ankle-Strap Pumps
H&M's Snakeskin Boots
Isabel Marant's Multistrap Ankle Boots
Kenzo's Chunky Wedge Booties
Sacai's Shin-Guard Boots
Saint Laurent's Sparkly Ruby-Red Mary Janes
Valentino's Polka-Dot Booties
Alexander McQueen's Crystal Combat Boots
Louis Vuitton's Patent Leather Ankle Boots
Miu Miu's Nuts and Bolts Pumps
Miu Miu's Nuts and Bolts Pumps
Givenchy's Spike-Heel Sandals
Rick Owen's Legging Sneakers
Stella McCartney's Chunky-Sole Oxfords
Blumarine's Round-Toe Heels
Etro's Slouchy Suede Boots
Emilio Pucci's Studded Leather Boots
Dolce & Gabbana's Ornate Flats
Salvatore Ferragamo's Luxe Knee-High Boots
Prada's Perforated Wedges
Alberta Ferretti's Feather Sandals
Blu Girl's Platform Mary Janes
Fausto Puglisi's Yellow Suede Pumps
Gucci's Snakeskin Boots
Just Cavalli's Colorful Suede Knee-High and Ankle Boots
No. 21's Mixed-Material Heels
Emilia Wickstead's Gold Ankle-Strap Heels
Erdem's Sparkly Heels
Christian Louboutin for Jonathan Saunders' Glitter Pumps
Markus Lupfer's Slingback Flats
Peter Pilotto's Three-Strap Pumps
Preen's Lace-Up Mules
Mary Katrantzou's High-Heel Oxford
Joie's Single-Strap Sandals
Karen Walker's Lug-Sole Penny Loafers
Marc by Marc Jacobs' Multistrap Mary Janes
3.1 Phillip Lim's Black-and-White Boots
Proenza Schouler's Crisscross-Strap Flats
Tommy Hilfiger's Wedge Hiking Boots
Tory Burch's Victorian Era-Inspired Lace-Up Heels
Ralph Lauren's Simple Mary Janes
Alexander Wang's Backless Boots
Joseph Altuzarra's Cutout Booties
Band of Outsiders' Oxfords
Derek Lam's Cone-Heel Ankle Boots
DKNY's Platform Sneakers
Edun's Furry Lace Shell-Toes
Jason Wu's Ladylike T-Strap Heels
Kate Spade's Red Pumps
Lacoste's Pointy-Toe Lace-Up Oxfords
Peter Som's Leopard Chelsea Boots
Prabal Gurung's Tiny Bell Ankle-Strap Heels
Rag & Bone's Shearling Booties
Suno's Brogues
Thakoon's Black-and-Brown Booties
Coach's Rubber-Sole Wedge Boots
BCBG's Edgy Ankle-Strap Boots
Whit's Wedge Desert Boots
Photos: Mark Leibowitz
Fashion is about going ahead, not about memory.
Karl Lagerfeld
A girl should be two things: classy and fabulous.
Coco Chanel
Fashion is architecture: it is a matter of proportions.
Coco Chanel
Another enjoyable meeting, let's meet again soon. XOs
Another enjoyable meeting, let's meet again soon. XOs
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