VOGUE
SPRING 2016 READY-TO-WEAR
http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2016-ready-to-wear/
The ship’s propeller backdrop and aircraft carrier runway
semaphored David
Koma’s theme at Mugler today: military. What,again? The
frequency with which the uniform of war is press-ganged by designers intent on
crafting clothes to love can seem counterintuitive in an industry based on
generating innovation.
Donatella Versace just
launched her martial-themed Spring ’16 collection—a
campaign for gender empowerment—while Chalayan’s was
a typically dense take inspired by the end of Cuba’s isolation. Every season,
for either gender, you can expect a significant military presence. Why? It’s
not complicated. When done well, military collections can make the utilitarian
seem sexy via universally recognizable signifiers.
Koma’s casus belli seemed straightforward,
too: Half-hiding behind a mirror to evade well-wishers after this show, the
designer said, “We have such incredible girls here, and it’s about being
inspired by them. Wanting them to look cool, to look fresh, and to enjoy
clothes.”
He rattled through pretty much every military
service. The first wave was naval, an interplay of navy and white with
decorative insignia buttons on looks that included an angled peak-lapel,
three-button, double-breasted jacket and minidresses that rearranged the fold
and contrast of traditional sailor suits. One dress featured a lovely
helter-skelter twist of white that twined around the body above a four-button
accent. Softer items included an asymmetrical-hemmed plissé dress with half-zip
details at the waist. Next into the field came the army; the olive section
included a cutaway backless dress in leather—the top and bottom half linked by
a clasp of three gleaming officer stripes. Soft kicky trousers were topped with
deconstructed bodices, while the classic field jacket was turned into a
sleeveless minidress with silk poacher pockets—a skinny belt peppered with
eyelets cinched the waist.
A dress decorated with a grid of angular metal openings and dresses
crisscrossed with metal-piped slashes were harder to link to Koma’s theme,
although the former did demand the wearer go commando: “She must NOT wear
underwear,” ordered the look-board backstage. Koma’s body-con brigade kept
coming; some in hefty-heeled, pointy-toed, monk-strap flats, some with the
straps of their handbags looped through the epaulets at their shoulder. A burst
of burnt orange looks ran contrary to the camouflage agenda of real
militarywear but had the explosive impact that Mugler’s customers enjoy. The
final push was Doutzen Kroes, looking invincible in a backless navy jumpsuit.
This was a deceptively simple but cleverly executed take on military, and it
won.
Versache
SPRING 2016 READY-TO-WEAR
Donatella Versace
Chalayan
SPRING 2016 READY-TO-WEAR
Chalayan
"Elegance is not standing out, but being remembered." —Giorgio Armani
“Learn the rules like a pro, so you can break them like an artist.” ~Pablo Picasso
Hello again Fashionistas!!! I hope you are enjoying your time in our little hub, relaxing and feeding your 'Creative Juices'. This is our little hide-away where we can escape from the hustle and bustle, put our feet up and just 'chill' while we are "figuring out the Fashion Trend". Meet you here again soon. XOXO
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